Alone in Namibia with Martha Gellhorn

Sign on the way to Hobatere Lodge

By Piia Mustamäki

“You are alone?” The young woman’s raised left eyebrow gave away her surprise. It was Christmas Day during a pandemic and I had just driven 10 miles on a gravel road. The other woman behind the Hobatere Lodge reception didn’t bother hiding her alarm. Both eyebrows raised, she chimed in, “You don’t have children?” “No I don’t,'' I answered, flashing a smile I had gotten used to doing and quickly changed the topic to the five elephants splashing at the water hole in front of the lodge.

The check-in continued as usual except that the woman worried about my childlessness k...

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